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 Hydroseeding
Seed, sod or hydro-seed for a new lawn? This is the question when starting a new lawn. Hand seeding requires time, persistence, hard work and, often, re-seeding. Heavy rain can wash away your seed; sun and drought can burn it out; or a flock of birds can stop by for lunch. Unlike straw that is often used as a protective cover for a newly seeded area, hydro-seeding mulch has NO weed seed. Straw is loaded with weed seed. Sodding is the fastest but also the most expensive method. Hydro-seeding, developed over 60 years ago when farmers needed to seed large areas at a low cost, is a middle-of-the-road approach. Today's hydro-seeding equipment gives landscape contractors great versatility in seeding lawns large and small.
So how does hydro-seeding work? Seed, wood fiber mulch, fertilizer, binding agents and water are precisely measured to form a mixture. The mixture is then sprayed onto your lawn with a hydro-seeder. The wood fiber mulch and binding agents in the mixture attach themselves to the prepared area and lock the seed and fiber into a network that retains moisture, sustains grass seedlings during dry-spells and acts as a deflector of wind, rain and pests. The hydro-seeding mixture stabilizes the soil and eventually decomposes after the grass has grown enough to be cut.
To achieve the best results. Before hydro-seeding begins, lawn areas should be stripped of excess grass and weeds, rotor tilled if needed and re-graded with screened loam and compost materials.
Maintenance. You must water daily for the first two weeks; you'll be able to mow it in about three weeks. Remember not to scalp your lawn; removing more than a third of the blade shocks the plant and weakens the turf. Keep your mower's blade sharp. When preparation, cultivation and maintenance are properly performed, you will enjoy a lawn as thick and green as the best farm-grown sod.
Read the 7 common hydro-seeding questions
Core Aeration and Over Seeding
Provides a total renovation with drought, insect and disease resistant grasses. (Guaranteed for life as long as Gro-Pro maintains the lawn)
Why Aerate? Aeration should be a regular part of your annual lawn maintenance program. Compacted soil and heavy thatch are two of the biggest obstacles to a beautiful lawn. They tend to suffocate grass plants by preventing air, water and nutrients from reaching the root zone. This means your lawn looks less than satisfactory in spite of adequate fertilization and water.
How it's done… Aeration is accomplished by the use of a machine equipped with cylinder-like spoons designed to penetrate and shatter the soil. Half-inch diameter plugs of thatch and soil are actually pulled from the ground during this process; allowing the grass plants to breathe and promoting deeper, healthier roots. In addition, Gro Pro will add more disease and drought resistant grasses to your lawn by overseeding at the same time. Over seeding right after aeration is an excellent idea. The aeration pulls soil up to the surface which increases seed-soil contact and increases germination rates.
Instantly increase oxygen, nutrient and water flow. The holes immediately fill with oxygen which encourages the roots to rapidly expand and fill the oxygen rich holes. The increased oxygen improves the mobility of nutrients, water and air both within the plant and between the soil and roots.
Control thatch. Aeration helps control thatch build up. It accomplishes this by adding oxygen to the soil which increases the decomposition rate. You can also reduce an existing thatch layer by aerating the lawn twice at right angles every spring and fall.
Power Slice Seeding
Provides a total renovation with drought, insect, and disease resistant grasses.
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